I hope to get back to blogging in earnest this fall, but right now the
newspaper and magazine deadlines are killing me!
Here are a couple of great value wine picks. These Ghost wines are by
produced by two of my favorite young winemakers, Chris Gorman and Mark
Ryan McNeilly.
My Washington wine book is at the printer and will be shipping from the
UC Press warehouse sometime around mid-September. The best price is on
Amazon, and it can be pre-ordered (hint hint). That link is:
www.amazon.com/Washington-Wines-Wineries-Essential-Guide/dp/0520248694/ref=sr_1_1/103-7034802-
6706248?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1188060168&sr=1-1
Best wishes for a great Labor Day holiday weekend! Here are some great
wines to enjoy while summer hangs on.
‘The Ghost of 413’ 2005 Columbia Valley Red; $15.
This is serious juice, crafted by Chris Gorman and Mark Ryan McNeilly.
The blend is three fifths cabernet, one quarter merlot and the rest cab
franc, aged 20 months in French oak, one third new. Muscular and
complex, it’s loaded with cassis, plum and black cherry fruit. The firm
tannins and light herbal notes are set against tart acids, and the barrel
time contributes flavors of cracker and toast, without being
intrusive.
The Ghost of 413 2006 Columbia Valley White Wine; $12.
An aromatic blend of semillon, chardonnay and gewürztraminer. The
flavors wrap together the crisp green apple of the chardonnay, the beeswax
texture of sémillon and the floral/citrus scents of gewürztraminer.
These two wines are sold (I believe) only in western Washington at
select wine shops, QFCs and Whole Foods.
But wait, there’s more! These Mark Ryan and Gorman new releases are
very very limited, so you will want to grab them ASAP. Here are some of
my favorites:
Gorman 2006 ‘Big Sissy’ Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay
Columbia Valley; $35
Just 40 cases were made. This is the first white wine from Gorman. The
wild yeast fermentation in 100% new French oak really piles on the
rich, butterscotch flavors, along with toast, spice, nutmeg and caramel.
But there’s fruit to match, powerful and thick, with impressive length
and weight. This belongs in the same exalted category as some of the
Kongsgaard Chards. In fact, I tasted a Kongsgaard Chard (ooh, a poem!)
right after this and quite honestly I liked this one better, for less
than half the price.
Gorman Winery 2005 ‘The Bully’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Red Mountain, $40
There are a relatively generous 312 cases of this 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon. There will be no Zach’s Ladder in ’05 (so grab yourself the
Ghost red for a value bottle). This is a thick, dense, smoky, chalky,
tarry wine with amazing depth and structure. It’s big and chewy, and yet
still shows excellent definition and even a bit of finesse. Though the
tannins are still somewhat raw and chewy, overall this is loaded with
such youthful power and flavor that you can forgive a little rough
foreplay.
Mark Ryan 2006 Conner Lee Vineyard Viognier
Columbia Valley; $28
260 cases were made. Mark Ryan really has the touch with Viognier, and
in 2006 he’s made not one but two. This is my favorite, although the
Ciel du Cheval bottling is no slouch. The Conner Lee rocks; it’s
de-stemmed and crushed rather than whole cluster pressed, concentrated and
loaded with citrus and stone fruits, and a lightly peppery mouthfeel.
Leesy and creamy and textural, it tastes of lime and grapefruit, stone
and fresh herb.
Mark Ryan 2005 ‘Water Witch’ Klipsun Vineyard Red Wine
Red Mountain; $45
Just 120 cases, 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet, and all Klipsun Vineyard.
This is classic Washingon Merlot; plush with dark and smoky fruit, a
supple and muscular mouthfeel, and broad flavors of plum and cherry. The
generous (80%) use of new French oak adds plenty of chocolate and
spice. Klipsun fruit can sometimes be rough and tannic, but here they are
supple and almost soft, like real Corinthian leather. Smoooooth!
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